Literally the new kid on the block, Emmy Squared, in the former Shed at Glenwood space, is the work of Emily and Matt Hyland, who opened their first restaurant, Emily, in Brooklyn in 2014 and transformed this sister concept into a national channel. with more than a dozen locations.
Taking inspiration from Emily’s name, the shape of the pizza (sort of) and Einstein’s famous formula, Emmy Squared is a welcome diversion from the pizzerias devoted to the red checkered tablecloth where the pies are. abundant but minimal accompaniments.
Surely you can find places with better Detroit pies, but maybe not a place where you can enjoy delicious cocktails, a world-class burger and a killer piece, besides the offering of the same name. Fortunately, the nicely renovated room feels more like a neighborhood hangout with friendly service and great food than a company-owned cookie cutter.
I love her so much. I plan to go back there often.
The pizzas here fall into two main categories – red and white – and can be made gluten-free. The red category is where you will find familiar flavors; white is the place to look for more creative options, although none are dressed in white sauce.
The MVP (red sauce, vodka sauce, pesto and mozzarella) lives up to its name. The seemingly simple ingredients combine with chemistry and don’t overpower the wonderful golden, crispy cheese crust. A winner indeed. I also liked the colony (red sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni, pickled jalapenos, and honey), although Glide distributes similar ingredients for better effect.
On the white side, the Shed (green tomato, green onion, bacon jam, chili cheese) was overkill in the best possible way, but my friend’s last minute decision to order a Quinn (ricotta, mozzarella, smoked gouda) with the pepperoni was a bum one – a three cheese wash.
Indeed, there was a serious misstep, an overly salty Parma eggplant aperitif that our server kindly removed from the bill. The waffle fries topped with Hatch pepper, bacon, green onions and ranch were more gooey than gooey, meaning the texture of the cheese suffered from the melt. But our two salads are gone: Brussels sprouts with pickled red onion, blue cheese, cashews, dried cherries and miso dressing – and a hot piece of Nashville chicken, blue cheese, olives, celery, cherry tomatoes, ranch. and Alabama white sauce. I can’t say enough good things about this updated icon.
Although I was told that Emily in NYC has an exceptional burger and my colleague Bob Townsend named Emma Squared’s Big Matt one of her favorite dishes in the recent AJC restaurant guide , I didn’t make the connection until I researched this review. These guys are burger pros, and the one they cooked up for Emmy Squared is surprisingly delicious: two grass-fed patties with American cheese, a special sauce, lettuce and pickles on a pretzel bun with a cross drawn on top. Not a ridiculously stuffed burger that crumbles the minute you look at it, but a shapely little darling that holds until the last bite.
He’s got the Einstein touch, that one.
Emmy Squared Pizza
Food: Detroit-style pies, sandwiches and salads
Setting: nice makeover of the old Shed space
The best dishes: Shed pizza, hot Nashville chicken wedge, Brussels sprout salad, Le Big Matt burger
Vegetarian selections: garlic sticks, fried green tomatoes, Parma eggplants, Brussels sprouts and kale salads, many pizzas (including yours)
Alcohol: Full bar. Try the Out of Fashion and the Negroni.
Price range: $$
COVID Security: Staff routinely wore masks. The room was not crowded on weeknights.
Credit card: all major credit cards accepted
Hours: 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday; noon-10 p.m. on Fridays; 11 am-10pm on Saturdays; 11 am-9pm Sunday
Car park: free parking in the car park and on the street
MARTA station: King’s Memorial
Wheelchair access: Yes
Noise level: moo
Go out: Yes
Address, phone: 475 Bill Kennedy Way SE, Atlanta; 470-610-0100
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